There is a particular kind of morning light in Chania that I will never stop chasing — golden, angled, the kind that turns ordinary harbour stones into amber. It was on one such morning, maybe twenty years ago now, that I stood in my yiayia’s kitchen watching her drag a bunch of flat-leaf parsley from … Read more
Nikos Papadopoulos
The late afternoon sun was beating down on the stone courtyard of my grandfather’s taverna in Chania, turning the air into something you could almost touch. I was maybe fifteen, standing barefoot on the warm tiles, watching my mother work over her tapsi — that heavy clay roasting dish that had been in our family … Read more